In Pagosa Springs, Colorado, the beginning of fall is known as the start of “soaking season” — one of the best times of year to enjoy the town’s natural mineral hot springs that draw locals and tourists year-round for relaxation and renewal.
I was all set to take part in the autumnal bathing during a weekend stay at The Springs Resort, home to more than 50 pools fed by world's deepest geothermal hot spring (known as the Mother Spring) — until a tropical storm threw a wrench into my plans.
Over four days, the city of Pagosa Springs and its surrounding county experienced two historic floods because of the moisture from the remnants of tropical storms Priscilla and Raymond. About 30 homes, 100 people and several businesses had to evacuate as the San Juan River rose to unprecedented levels, causing damages that are still being assessed.
When I first saw the news, I was unsure whether to make the drive up from Albuquerque, New Mexico, or reschedule the stay for another time. A quick call to the resort confirmed that everything was operable, other than a few flooded pools, and they were happy to receive me and my partner.
As we found out, most of the 157-room resort was safe from flooding. In fact, the out-of-the-ordinary circumstances actually gave us an opportunity to see how the resort and its staff functioned under pressure.
And they still delivered the award-winning hospitality for which the resort is known. The Springs Resort was recently voted the No. 1 Hot Springs and No. 1 Spa Resort in the U.S. in USA Today’s 2025 10Best Readers’ Choice Awards, and it has previously been ranked on lists by Conde Nast Traveler, Travel + Leisure and more.
Activities
Although it was storming off and on, everything seemed to hum along at its usual pace, with staff greeting us and responding to any needs (umbrellas, dry towels, dry robes, more dry towels and more dry robes) with kindness and efficiency. Pools were only closed if there was lightning, and the schedule of complimentary wellness activities continued on as usual when possible.
While forest bathing was a no-go due to inclement conditions, my partner and I were able to enjoy multiple aqua sound bathing sessions and a Restful Recharge meditative class under the direction of wellness instructor Elisa Dolan, who also leads aqua yoga and stretching sessions. There are also daily “warrior plunges” that end with a cold dip in the San Juan River (when the river levels are normal), guided mud experiences, aroma saunas and gratitude ceremonies by the Mother Spring — which is more than 1,000 feet deep. Our aroma sauna featured a delicious cinnamon scent, known for mood enhancement, increased mental clarity and improved focus.
Sound baths are among the available activities at the property.
Credit: 2025 The Springs Resort & SpaThese gratis activities perfectly complement the star of the show: the soaking pools with views of the San Juan River. Guests are welcome to enjoy the 52 hot springs pools, cold river plunges, a waterfall and a steam grotto — all which range from 35 to 112 degrees Fahrenheit — at their own pace (overnight clients have 24-hour access to the pools). Or they can opt for the just-introduced "Pathways," where guests choose a soaking circuit based on their specific wellness goals. We chose the Deep Sleep Journey, which offers a full itinerary including when, how long and at what temperatures to soak, interspersed with instructions on when to plan for restorative yoga, massages, dinner and evening walks.
Dining
And speaking of dinner, the on-site Wild Finch is a must-try. The upscale venue is open every evening starting at 5 p.m. and serves everything from scallop crudo and tiger shrimp to chicken-fried elk and Wagyu steak. After a long day of rejuvenation, my partner and I eagerly tucked into roasted duck breast served with green apple and fig and a “tooth and gill” polenta brimming with local mushrooms. We sampled cocktails, wine and nonalcoholic drinks — such as the popular Pagosa Collins — and the pacing of our food and drinks was excellent.
Guests can have dinner at the on-site Wild Finch.
Credit: 2025 The Springs Resort & SpaOther on-site venues include The Cafe for simple but hearty breakfasts; Barefoot Grill for easy-to-eat bites by the pools; 1881 Poolside Provisions for snacks and sips; and Canteen for cocktails, beer, nonalcoholic drinks and “vitality tonics” such as the Get-Up & ’Gosa, a superfood blend of sea buckthorn, baobab, orange, lemon, pineapple and ginger.
Accommodations
When we weren’t dipping in and out of the mineral springs or savoring a poolside Manhattan, my partner and I loved lounging in our newly built room. An extensive renovation completed this past spring added 78 guestrooms along with a 50,000-square-foot geothermal-inspired spa with 12 treatment rooms, an outdoor sauna, Wild Finch, a panoramic indoor sauna with halotherapy and new wellness amenities curated under the guidance of Sharon Holtz, the resort’s vice president of wellness, and medical director Dr. Marcus Coplin.
A renovation earlier this year added 78 guestrooms to the property.
Credit: 2025 The Springs Resort & SpaOur 402-square-foot guestroom featured two ultra-comfy queen beds, a bathroom with a large walk-in shower, a minifridge, a microwave and a coffeemaker. A Deep Sleep Tray offered complimentary items such as ear plugs, a small bag of trail mix, a cell phone “sleep sack” for putting devices away, an aromatherapy “dream stick,” a sleep guide and a sleep wellness techniques card, all of which provided more ways to sink deeper into relaxation.
Truly, The Springs Resort provides the setting for whatever kind of getaway clients want, whether they’re seeking indulgence or are health-and-wellness devotees interested in communing with the Mother Spring. For our part, my partner and I found a happy medium that allowed for a reset we both desperately needed.
And while we may have visited during an unprecedented storm that could have derailed our stay, the experience was still excellent thanks to the high quality of the resort and the hospitality of the staff. Plus, it makes me all the more eager to return during a sunnier time of year and experience it anew.
