Review: Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows on Maui

Just a short walk from the warm waters of the Pacific and the sandy splendor of West Maui’s Kaanapali Beach, there is a soaring rubber tree with a 75-foot canopy, under which Hawaiian musicians have been performing nightly since last November.

Already 20 years old when it was replanted there at the heart of the 27-acre Royal Lahaina Resort & Bungalows property in 1962 — the year the hotel first opened — the sprawling rubber tree is rapidly approaching the century mark. But this particular Maui old-timer hasn’t let age keep it from helping out its neighbors after the devastating wildfire that destroyed much of nearby Lahaina in August 2023. 

“It's well-known that music helps heal,” said Nicholas Kuhns, general manager for Royal Lahaina Resort. “And we wanted the community to have a place where they could come and hui (join) together and share stories and just enjoy live entertainment.”

Healing Branches

Under the canopy of the old rubber tree, resort officials launched The Branches nightly run of music events — free for guests and locals — in November 2024, featuring live performances by a rotating lineup of local musicians, along with a range of food and drink options available for purchase.

On the third Friday of each month, Kuhns says the venue welcomes bigger-name Hawaiian music acts while also inviting West Maui artisans to set up near the rubber tree, offering them a chance to sell their artwork and local products.

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Many Lahaina restaurants were destroyed during the 2023 wildfire, according to Kuhns, who says that loss of venues has been particularly hard on West Maui’s musicians.

“There were a significant amount of artists on Maui who were struggling to find work,” Kuhns said. “So we wanted to create a space where local artists could come and perform that was open to the public and resort guests, where people could just come together in a very organic way.”

During my stay at Royal Lahaina Resort earlier this fall, my time seated upfront near The Branches stage at one of those third Friday performances was certainly a heartwarming highlight, watching children dance to the music in front of a buzzing mix of local families and vacationing couples.

The lively outdoor venue sparkled, lit by a cast of hanging lanterns and engulfed by the cheerful crowd. The music was upbeat and bright, and there was an unmistakable ease and joy radiating beneath all those widespread, welcoming branches. It almost felt like that old rubber tree was reaching out to us all for a big hug.

Substantial Overhaul

In December 2021, Hawaii-based real estate investment firm BlackSand Capital completed its purchase of the beachfront Royal Lahaina Resort and brought on Highgate Hawaii to handle operations at the property, which features 333 guestrooms in a 12-story tower and another 127 private bungalows and suites.

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Since then, $35 million has been spent on an impressive list of improvements, according to Kuhns, including a dramatic renovation to all the private bungalows, an overhaul for the resort’s spa and enhancements to the property’s public spaces, pools and events facilities, as well as the addition of new dining outlets Lahaina Noon and Pineapple Noon.

“It was very thoughtfully designed and well-intentioned, making some needed updates and improvements but also paying homage to the authentic feeling of traditional Hawaii,” Kuhns said of the recently completed private bungalow renovations. “I’m just really pleased with how they turned out.”

My stay earlier this fall included two nights in an ocean-view bungalow studio, located just a few steps from the old rubber tree. Spacious, comfortable and terrifically reflective of the entire resort’s easygoing, beachfront vibe, the studio featured a full kitchen and a small dining area, and it would be a great fit for vacationing couples interested in a more residential guest experience.

Set on the northern end of Kaanapali Beach, Royal Lahaina Resort is known for a more relaxed feel compared to other properties located farther south on the legendary stretch of sand. A solid option for travelers hoping to be a step or two removed from hustle and bustle, the resort has a sizable collection of regularly returning guests, Kuhns says.

“Royal Lahaina was one of the first properties that opened on Kaanapali back in the 1960s, and we have generational travelers who were coming here when they were grandkids,” he added. “Now they're grandparents, visiting with their own grandkids.” 

Signs of Growth

Royal Lahaina was closed for 10 months immediately following the wildfires of August 2023, during which the property housed staff and other members of the Lahaina community displaced by the blaze.

“Really, it was just about doing the right thing,” Kuhns said. “Many people on our team were displaced by the fires, and Highgate took an active approach to pause and focus on the needs of not only our associates, but also the community that was displaced.”

After the property’s reopening last summer, business has slowly but surely improved in recent months, Kuhns says.

“We’re definitely moving in the right direction,” he said. “Occupancy here today is probably in the low 60s — low to mid 60s. Pre-fire, we were high 80s, low 90s. But we do expect to make up more of that next year.”

Emphasizing that West Maui is not only ready to welcome back visitors but eager to have vacationers return, Kuhns indicates that room rates are discounted at many of the region’s resorts, where hoteliers hope to boost bookings.

“And now really is a good time to experience the beauty that is Maui — especially West Maui,” he said, mentioning how crowded beaches and restaurants were there before the fire. “Now, you can access the restaurants, you can access the beach. It’s a great time because it just doesn't feel as overrun as it did in 2022 and 2023 pre-fire.”