About a 30-minute drive from Moab, Utah, 50 cream-colored tented suites are nestled against a rugged red curving cliff, blending into the desert landscape and facing Canyonlands National Park.
These accommodations are part of Ulum Moab, a resort awarded Two Michelin Keys, where guests might feel like they have stepped into another world. The surreal beauty of the desert and red rocks combined with the luxurious amenities of the resort make for a truly memorable experience.
Some mornings, I drank coffee on the deck as the sky changed colors with the sunrise, which contrasted with late nights sipping tea and admiring the twinkling symphony of stars. Ulum Moab is a DarkSky Approved Lodging and is located in one of the highest concentrations of certified International Dark Sky Places in the world, resulting in some of the best stargazing I’ve ever seen.
My safari-style Suite Tent was located on the far end of the property, meaning I also enjoyed the utmost privacy. Lifted off the ground on a wooden platform, the 360-square-foot tent featured a king-size bed covered in Parachute linens and an ensuite bathroom with a rainfall shower and Aesop bath products.
A 360-square-foot, safari-style Suite Tent
Credit: 2025 Ulum MoabOn warm days, I moved about the tent in one of the provided robes, sometimes lying on the couch to read as the evaporative cooling fan lowered the temperature. It grew cool in the evenings and mornings, warranting the use of the electric blanket on the bed or the need to build a fire in the wood-burning stove.
If I wasn’t enjoying the simple pleasures of tent living, I was in the resort’s lobby.
The modern lobby area embraces organic materials.
Credit: 2025 Ulum MoabDesigned by Design360 to be ultra-modern and low-profile, it features a sloped roof and bifold floor-to-ceiling glass windows that reflect the desert. Inside is a mix of warm cream-colored couches, wooden tables, black chairs with woven seats, stone floors and a chandelier made of ancient rock fragments found on site.
There, I sipped fruit smoothies from the smoothie bar, grabbed snacks from the free Trail Mix Bar and ate Southwest-inspired dinners at the restaurant. Meals ranged from steaks to green-chili fritters and grilled Kauai shrimp, paired with smoky or floral cocktails.
On-site dining has a Southwestern flair.
Credit: 2025 Ulum MoabEvenings were well spent on the terrace, having a glass of wine and listening to local musicians play folk songs while admiring the glowing scenery. When the sun fully set, resort employees provided ingredients for guests to make s’mores in the fire pits.
Experiential Luxury
On-site dining was not the only amenity available at Ulum Moab. Activities offered included homemade soap- and jewelry-making classes, herbalist-led nature walks, guided yoga, sound baths, mixology classes and paint nights.
I soaked in the hot tub after going on an Indigenous-led hike with Ancient Wayves River and Hiking Adventures in Bears Ears National Monument, while some of my travel companions opted for the cold plunge or the warm pool. Ulum Moab’s Adventure Concierge also scheduled a 4x4 driving tour for me through Canyonlands National Park with Navtec Expeditions.
The Looking Glass Arch is visible throughout the resort.
Credit: 2025 Ulum MoabAlthough the resort can also arrange river rafting trips and canyoneering experiences just a few hours away, I didn’t have to go far to rock climb and rappel the Looking Glass Arch rock formation. The red sandstone tower with its “window” is visible from all areas of the resort. While most guests walk to Looking Glass Arch to explore on their own, I ascended the formation with Desert Highlights’ guides. At the top, I admired 360-degree views of the desert, plateaus, canyons, cliffs and the resort. There was nothing more thrilling than the 120-foot rappel down, followed by a return to the resort to soak my muscles in the hot tub.
Despite the property being nearly booked out during my stay, I felt like I had the place to myself most of the time. I reveled in the silence and solitude as I walked between the lobby and my room, stopping to admire orange and yellow flowers and watching tiny lizards search for shade.
Even while gathering on the terrace at night with other guests, our conversations seemed muffled by the beauty around us. Or perhaps we were so mesmerized by the mountains in the distance, the noise of a crackling fire in the desert air or the stars above Ulum Moab, that our tones were hushed in reverence for Utah’s Canyon Country.
