I had barely settled in for dinner when the public address system chimed: “Dear passengers, we’ve spotted the northern lights. If you’d like to join us, head to Deck 8.”
It was my first night on the 179-cabin Havila Castor, one of four ships from Havila Voyages, which has been operating since 2021 and doubles as a ferry carrying passengers and goods. We were sailing the classic Norwegian coastal route between Bergen and Kirkenes.
Havila Castor at Hjorundfjorden in Norway
Credit: 2025 Havila Voyages
The Northern Lights Are Guaranteed
I boarded the ship halfway through the route in Tromso, where I had flown in for a three-night, four-day cruise.
I was interested in the company’s confidence about its aurora sightings. If clients don’t see the northern lights between Oct. 1 and March 31 on a 12-day Round Voyage, their next trip with Havila Voyages is free of charge.
If clients don’t see the northern lights between Oct. 1 and March 31 on a 12-day Round Voyage, their next trip with Havila Voyages is free of charge.
The chances of witnessing this natural phenomenon increased with each passing day. The farther north we traveled, the shorter the daylight hours became.
The ship offers multiple viewing spaces.
Credit: 2025 Havila VoyagesWith no traditional cruise entertainment available — such as a casino, shows or cooking classes onboard — the highlight of each day was the briefing by the excursion team. While I was quite happy to spend time reading, going to the gym and jumping in the Jacuzzi, there was nothing to see in the dark for hours on end. But when the northern lights came out, it was pure magic.
Authentic Norwegian Excursions
Whether we were in a well-known city such as Tromso or a small town like Honningsvag, every port we visited immersed us in authentic Norwegian life. These are real neighborhoods where locals live and work, free from tourist traps and mass tourism. Wherever we anchored, we were the only cruise ship, adding a sense of exclusivity and making us feel like pioneers in this remote part of the world.
The ship stops at small ports, such as Honningsvag.
Credit: 2025 Wibke CarterI wished I could explore every tiny port, but passengers were only allowed to disembark at stops lasting about 30 minutes or more. The excursion program is extensive but changes depending on the seasons.
"Our most popular choice on this part of the journey is the North Cape, Europe’s northernmost point,” said Fabrizio Buzzetti, an expedition team member for Havila Voyages. “The drive there is stunning, and the guides are very knowledgeable.”
In Honningsvag, I took a self-guided walk through the charming little fishing town. The journey continued to Kirkenes, located just a few miles from the Russian border. Here, road signs are written in both Norwegian and Cyrillic.
"We just want to make sure our neighbors find their way home,” quipped Dirk Heidschwager, my guide on a king crab fishing tour.
The author with a giant king crab
Credit: 2025 Wibke CarterWe ventured out onto the ice by snowmobile, with the thermometer showing a biting -9 degrees Fahrenheit. Afterward, a feast of freshly caught crustaceans was prepared, and it was delicious.
What to Know About Food and Drink
The food onboard also expertly showcases the flavors of the polar region, with dishes such as beetroot tartare, fried Arctic char and smoked salmon mousse.
Every afternoon, guests were treated to a snack on the deck, such as moose sausage or reindeer soup. Breakfast and lunch were all you can eat. However, there was an additional cost per dish at dinner if clients exceeded three courses, and all beverages outside of coffee, tea and water incurred an extra charge. Havila Voyages places a big emphasis on reducing food waste, but it’s a fine line to leave customers not quite full after an energetic day.
The ship turned around in Kirkenes, and before long, after a quick sightseeing excursion in Hammerfest, I was back in Tromso. My conclusion: This is a cruise for people who don’t like mass cruising, but appreciate local culture, nature and the northern lights.
