Winter came early to the Austrian Alps this year, when a surprise snowstorm blanketed the region’s Alpine villages with three feet of white powder in mid-September, prompting the residents to dust off their ski gear. And the early snow is a good thing, according to Wolfgang Weiss, a director at Berghotel located on the top of Schmittenhoehe mountain in Zell am See Kaprun, an Alpine village.
“It’s called ‘schutzengel schnee,’ which means ‘guardian angel snow,’” Weiss said. “It’s much better than heavy rains. It ends the summer heat and starts our autumn season.”
French Courchevel and Swiss St Moritz may be among the most famous of the European ski resorts, but they’re also crowded and pricey. Smaller and less-visited Alpine villages, including Zell Am See Kaprun, offer more authentic regional experiences, plus more affordable lift tickets, shorter lines, uncrowded slopes and boundless trails that start or end at your hotel — and sometimes even at your room. Here are three alternative skiing destinations in the heart of the Austrian Alps, each with its own charm and story to tell.
Ski Like James Bond in Otztal, Austria
With more than 350 kilometers of slopes, 250 towering mountain peaks and two glaciers, Otztal remains an under-the-radar local gem. Clients can get on the mountain here as early as October for downhill skiing, cross country skiing, snowboarding and snowshoeing. Travelers might also choose from 15 scenic toboggan runs, which will get riders of all ages buzzing down the mountain on a wooden sleigh.
Otztal is also a spa destination, thanks to its thermal baths, of which some are nude (no clothes allowed). In 2015, the Otztal Valley became the movie set for the classic James Bond film “Spectre.” The Ice Q restaurant in the neighboring town of Solden (and at the top of the Gaislachkogl Peak) was turned into the Hoffler Klinik where James Bond meets Madeleine Swann, and where an epic snow chase begins. Today, an interactive exhibit next to the restaurant lets visitors experience some of the film’s dramatic scores and action sequences.
The Ice Q restaurant doubled as a James Bond film location.
Credit: 2024 Ice QEnjoy an Alpine-Urban Kaleidoscope in Innsbruck
Sports, storytelling and history collide in Innsbruck, where majestic slopes are barely half an hour away from the resplendent Innsbruck Hofburg Palace, which is more than 500 years old. Travelers can have the best of both worlds here, alternating between thrilling skiing and diving into Austria's glamorous past. The destination is a truly unique Alpine-urban kaleidoscope.
Hugged by the mountains that border Germany to the north and Italy to the south, Innsbruck has about 20 ski areas with 300 miles of slopes, as well as serene night skiing under the glow of floodlights. Meanwhile, the palace, museums and historical landmarks offer a “time travel” through the Hapsburg empire.
The Innsbruck Hofburg Palace is more than 500 years old.
Credit: 2024 Christian Vorhofer“It’s so easy to stroll through the city, visit museums and the imperial church, then hop on to the cable car right in the city center and be up the mountain in less than 30 minutes,” said Stephanie Schennach, marketing manager of Innsbruck Tourism.
Be the First on the Mountain at Zell Am See Kaprun
Clients will be the first adventurers on the slopes of Schmittenhohe mountain if they stay at the Berghotel, which is set at the peak’s summit and offers breathtaking views of the Alps from every room. Berghotel guests don’t need to take a gondola to get to the mountain top — they simply walk out of their room, put on skis and buzz down the slopes.
Guests at Berghotel have ski-in, ski-out access.
Credit: 2024 Berghotel SchmittenhoheNestled in the valley at the foot of the mountain, the village of Zell Am See Kaprun boasts souvenir shops, clothing boutiques and artisanal restaurants. Villagers still farm here in the summer months, and the abundance of local meats, dairy, berries and preserves makes for a thriving culinary scene.
If dining in the village, be sure to send clients to Flo, where culinary artist Florian Zillner offers a modern twist on classic Austrian dishes (think venison Bolognese and braised kohlrabi with mustard sauce); much of the produce is sourced from the restaurant’s vegetable garden. Up at Berghotel Schmittenhohe, the on-site restaurant serves schnitzels, potato salad, apple strudel and other Austrian classics with a 360-panoramic of snow-capped peaks. Relaxing in the hotel’s full-service spa afterwards is a must.
