Some kids like the wheels of a Matchbox car; others love yo-yos. My son’s fascination with things that spin has yielded a windmill obsession and the nickname “Don Quixote,” so our family decided to indulge his enthusiasm with a vacation to the Netherlands. Although my husband and I were unsure how our 3-year-old would fare on an overnight flight to Amsterdam, we made plans to jump around and see as many turbines as we could in a week.
Where to Stay in Amsterdam: The Hoxton
Those plans included a stay at The Hoxton a 111-room property in The Herengracht, where a post-red-eye check-in can be prearranged, and where family-friendly Biggy rooms feature minifridges stocked with milk. My family of three was able to hit the ground running thanks to a quick nap in our canal-side room.
The property was once home the home of the Mayor of Amsterdam, so each guestroom at The Hoxton Herengracht features different decor and square footage — Biggy rooms, the largest room category, range from 300 to 430 square feet. The five canal houses that make up this hotel are strung together by golden design threads that include parquet floors, vintage brass accents, cushy leather headboards and (thankfully) effective blackout shades.
Our toddler got his own twin-size cot that could easily fit into the room with space to spare, while my husband and I luxuriated in a cushy king-size bed — another check in the “win” category for The Hoxton, as many of the hotels in the coveted Nine Streets neighborhood only offer queen-size beds.
The Hoxton features family-friendly amenities including minifridges stocked with milk.
Credit: The HoxtonAmsterdam Landmarks and Attractions
The hotel's location — a short walk from Dam Square — is a central jumping-off point for kid-friendly activities. On our first day, we settled in by strolling to Melly’s StroopWafels for a sweet treat (the nearby Melly’s CookieBar has great coffee for the jet-lagged crowd) and explored Amsterdam Duck Store, which sells rubber ducks. The quirkily decorated birds are not only fun toys; they’re also an homage to the country’s artistic legacy — contemporary Dutch artist Florentijn Hofman earned renown for his large-scale urban installations, such as “Rubber Duck."
Something I didn’t expect on our adventure was that our 3-year-old would develop artistic leanings so young: He was obsessed with the installations by watercolorist Anne Stooker at The Hoxton, and every time we entered or left the hotel, he would run over to admire her bright paintings of popsicles, bats and birds.
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There were many more creatures of a feather at Vondelpark — the largest city park in Amsterdam — where we spotted several colorful parakeets roosting, along with cranes and ducks. Our son loved the playground at De Vondeltuin, a cafe that served tasty local beers and offered a kids' menu. We also explored Artis Royal Zoo’s Bird House, an aviary free of cages where the jungle and desert meet as an oasis in the city center.
Where to Stay in The Hague: Staybridge Suites The Hague-Parliament
The next day, we headed out toward The Hague; our first stop was Zaanse Schans village, where historic, walk-in windmills and green wooden houses were relocated a half-hour drive (or tram ride) outside Amsterdam to re-create the charms of the 18th century, complete with cheese-making and clog-carving workshops. At nearby Madurodam, all that and more is offered up in miniature, with intricate scale-model replicas of Dutch landmarks and cities. The playground, snack bar, and interactive rides and exhibits make this a can’t-miss for kids of all ages.
My husband and I were pleasantly surprised by our stay at Staybridge Suites The Hague – Parliament, which is centrally located in The Hague’s historic district and overlooks the 13th-century Court Pond. Our one-bedroom suite with a kitchenette included hot breakfast, on-site laundry facilities and a complimentary happy hour (available a few days each week), making it easy for us to spread out and relax.
At Madurodam, Dutch landmarks and cities are presented in miniature.
Credit: 2023 The Hague & PartnersThe Hague’s Landmarks and Attractions
Ranging from sandy to cerebral, there are plenty of things to do in The Hague, the Dutch seat of government. We opted to visit the country’s most famous beach — Scheveningen, and its SkyView Ferris wheel — as well as admire the works of M.C. Escher at the printmaker’s museum, housed in an 18th-century palace. Families that make it to the top floor of Escher in The Palace can take a picture that, like the artist's, plays with geometry and perspective so it appears toddlers are taller than their parents.
Indeed, “Don” was larger than life at Kinderdijk, where we carried him on our shoulders. The UNESCO World Heritage Site’s functional 18th-century windmills hug a hiking trail with spots for picnicking and photography. A day trip here via train takes two hours each way from Amsterdam, so it made sense to drive on our way back into the city.
The SkyView Ferris wheel in The Hague, the Dutch seat of government
Credit: 2023 The Hague & PartnersA shorter tram ride from our third hotel — the amazing Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht — to Sloten Windmill may be easier for tourists with toddlers. The functional 1847 mill is open for intimate tours in many languages, with to-scale models of the town’s windmills through the years. Some of our tour was hands-on (even with sticky fingers!), making our trek out on a sunny day well worth it for our windmill-obsessed kid. (A nearby ice cream shop and playground didn't hurt, either.)
Perhaps one of our biggest surprises, however, was the “secret garden” in the center of Andaz Amsterdam Prinsengracht. An “Alice in Amsterdam” mural by Marcel Wanders (based on “Alice in Wonderland”) and twisting corners with lush greenery were just right for a game of hide-and-seek with the other kids staying at the hotel. For us adults, the maximalist design that incorporates a perfect ratio of Delft ceramics, tulips and clogs were as whimsical as they were escapist.
